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LAS VEGAS -- The trends that came down the fashion runways at this August's MAGIC show was almost as hot as the sizzling airport tarmac. High and low, there was apparel to appeal to haute and mass consumers alike. The bottom line was that the well-attended show created a positive buzz about the apparel that is flowing into stores for spring 2005.

Across men's, women's and children's categories, licensed apparel--particularly lines featuring celebrity brands-maintained a powerful presence. This was especially true in women's in the intimates category, which was relatively late to the celebrity licensing game. Pamela Anderson was back with more sleepwear, loungewear and lingerie, and another former Playboy pinup, Anna Nicole Smith, launched her own lingerie line. Playboy and Hustler magazines also showed apparel at the Las Vegas Convention Center (LVCC), with much stronger presences than in years past. And, the Hilton Sisters were everywhere. The more serious of the two, Nicki Hilton, just launched a new apparel line at the show, while her infamous sister Paris was plastered about in ads for Guess. Sex, apparently, keeps selling.

While women's licensed apparel was downright sultry, men's wear was focused on all things automotive. It was as if women's and men's wear had completely polarized to befit traditional gender role stereotypes--from VF Jean-swear's Wrangler Jeans Co. line, featuring NASCAR star Dale Earnhardt Jr., to Lowrider clothing from Primedia and "Pimp My Ride" wear based on MTV's hit show. Between cars and choppers, the vehicular influences were coming fast and furious. Some of the lines, including hot-rod inspired Von Dutch, expanded this season into children's wear. Haddad's vp of marketing Colleen Whitcombe noted an uptick in sales related to its Harley Davidson licensed infant/toddler wear.

Another theme was a dramatic emphasis on politics, spurred by the election. While votes will already have been cast by next spring, there was merchandise available for opportunistic 4Q 2004 buys. P. Diddy featured T-shirts in his Sean Jean booth stating, "Vote or Die," as well as commissioning others, including Tommy Hilfiger, to do the same.

Overall, the streetwear brands that have maintained a g-rowing presence over the years at the show, including Sean Jean and Southpole, showed that they are here to stay.

"What we've seen at the show reflects the transition of urban labels into full lifestyle brands," said Paul Charron, chairman and ceo of Liz Claiborne, who was walking the showwith Karen Murray, group president of Liz Claiborne's men's wear division. "They've gone from premium denim to complete product ranges that include watches, tops and outwear. This is what we have been doing with Juicy Couture since we acquired [the label], introducing new products, including handbags, to the market."

While urban looks and brands, including Juicy, Phat Farm and Baby Phat, remained popular in men's, women's and children's, there was also a sudden interest in all things rural. There was a new area in young men's called the High 5 Campground, featuring tents, a faux campfire, images of deer and even trailers, celebrating the unintentional hipness of the Heartland. Plaid wovens, Ts sporting retro graphics and khaki and denim carpenter pants dominated. There was also "a lot of color for spring, in brands where you would not have typically expected it," noted Kent Reisdorff, a buyer for Macy's West in the Honolulu region, taking in the show on its first day, Aug. 30. Key colors in men's include white, green and even hints of purple, aqua, hot pink and coral.

The High 5 Campground section was positioned in the South Hall in young men's, where, "The trend seems to be toward premium denim and woven shirts, with an increase interest in knits for next season," surmised Jeffrey Budd, men's buyer for Sam's Club.

While men's tops have been in a wovens cycle for the past year, knits are expected to move ahead next spring. Op received intense interest from buyers for its retro polos, which pick up both '70s and '80s looks, in Miami Vice-style colors. Many vendors found that vintage-look screens remained a hit, especially those featuring saucy Vargas-style pin-ups, as seen at A. Kurtz.

The show made it easier than in years past to surmise all the trends at once, because women's apparel was relocated to the LVCC for the first time, along with men's and children's wear, instead of re siding a few miles away at The Sands Expo. While some vendors were less-than-thrilled with paying the same price for less visibility on the floor, buyers from Saks and Boscov's were thrilled to be able to take in the show in one fell swoop.

In women's, Lilly Pulitzer showed for the first time, fitting since knock-offs of her vibrant pastel prints were everywhere. Last spring's neon brights were toned down a bit, however. Denim is key, and as in men's, knit tops are expected to drive sales--only this time, building on a pre-existing trend toward fine-gauge knitwear. While wovens are key in young men's for layering, knits from American Apparel to Junk Food are expected to continue to drive sales in juniors.

Junk Food's distressed character licensed T-shirts continue to gain strength in the teen market. This show, an increasing number of urban brands, as well as other grown-up labels, partnered with traditional character licensed brands, such as Disney and Warner Bros.

Disney made a splash once again with its Bambi Couture juniors line, and its new Disney SNAP watch line (see Apparel section, page 17).

"What we've been doing with partners, including Southpole, has proven successful, leading to our decision to work with new partners; for example Rocawear, which will produce apparel for the new Batman movie," said Maribeth Towers-Toth, director of apparel at Warner Bros. Consumer Products.

Amidst the fashion shows and fabric displays, there was a panel on global sourcing during the show that brought up important questions about the tariff elimination that is slated for 2005, and its positive effect on margins in this deflationary category.

All things said, MAGIC proved that it is still the best way for the industry to get a read on the upcoming season.